Jay Fox's Dining Guide


“Every time I’m forced to watch them eat egg-white omelettes, I feel bad for them. In the first place, egg-white omelettes are tasteless. In the second place, the people who eat them think they are doing something virtuous when they are instead merely misinformed.” — Nora Ephron

The Den Restaurant
13410 Morrison Rd., Lakewood

GOLF COURSE FOOD SERVICE in metro Denver varies from a dude with a Weber grill serving burgers and dogs, to outstanding restaurants. In Denver we’re blessed with some very good dining facilities at most of the public and private courses. On previous occasions I’ve written about Foothills, Kennedy, Wellshire and several others. Last year I discovered The Den at Fox Hollow and am really glad I did.

As with most golf courses, they’re open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, depending on the time of the year. There are several large rooms for dining, and you can choose inside or outside. As y’all know, IDON’DO outside. Flying insects and birds own that purview and I don’t wish to intrude. I can be found sitting at the bar in front of the TV and the beverage dispenser.

Breakfast is served when the restaurant opens, which is when the golfers show, about sunrise, and is available until 11 a.m. The elaborate, extensive menu offers many traditional breakfast items including some of the best omelets around. They even offer a yummy frittata as well as a great breakfast burrito.

Lunch and dinner (‘til it gets dark) offers the same menu for both meals. Over a dozen salads including Cobb, Caesar, spicy buffalo chicken, taco, guacamole and pepper steak. You won’t be hungry after one of these dishes.

The burgers are excellent. They’re cooked to order and served on a yummy potato roll. The fries are super yummy. Most of the sangies I’ve tried are outstanding. As a big fan of pork in all its variations, I’ve fallen in love with the pork torte: pork carnitas, sweet chili sauce, jalapenos, avocado and stuff on a grilled ciabatta roll. My fav of the munchies is also pork, but this is pork flautas: house-made pulled pork, jalapeno cream cheese, tomatoes, jalapenos, and shredded lettuce in a flour tortilla and fried crisp. Served with lettuce, pico de gallo and house-made salsa. Yo!

Sangies — here they’re called Sandwedges (oh, so bad!). They run the gamut of lotsa really good, well-prepared fare: club, BLT, grilled ham and cheese, chicken Philly wrap, BBQ pork, Wasabi chicken wrap, and others. You’ll also find a yummy grilled jumbo hot dog, chicken fingers, and very good fish and chips. There’s also a variety of Mexican fare: nachos, quesadillas, the aforementioned pork flautas, pork carnitas tacos, fish tacos, enchiladas and burritos. They even serve chicken wings. Several items are available in half orders.

For golfers on the run there are pre-made ham and turkey sangies. Hot dogs are ready in an almost flash. Sadly, they do not offer spicy brown mustard. I usually bring my own.

There are also several a la carte items: house made green chili, house made salsa, and chili cheese fries. For those of you who complain if I don’t say something bad, the green chili is not on my fav list. Chili cheese fries is something I try all over town but none can compare to the ones at The Rusty Bucket.

When I can’t decide what I want, I have a hot dog with chips and then decide what I really want to eat. I then order sangie or the house made ice cream cake. Or both. This week it was Ryan’s famous blueberry infused chocolate ice cream cake. Alas, the only dessert offered is the ice cream cake; although there is a different one every week and they are wonderful.

The Den also offers full service catering and complete banquet service for groups up to 125 people indoors and 250 in the outdoor pavilion. I was there yesterday and they were setting up for a wedding reception for about 90 guests in the main dining room. Not only do they do lotsa banquets but the banquet menu will blow your mind. Their very talented chef Ryan Saunders prepares some amazing dishes. I’ve been fortunate to try a “leftover” or two or three. Maybe you want them to cater your super bowl party this coming February 2 at MetLife Stadium in New Joisey when the Denver Broncos faces off against… perhaps Baltimore again?

Service here is unusual in these trying times. It is fast, efficient and very friendly. There are a variety of guys and gals who work part-time but are well-trained. There is also staff in golf carts filled with grub and drink traversing the golf course all day long.

The golf course and all its facilities are owned by the city of Lakewood and operated by the Community Resources Department. The food operations are leased.


P.S. If you look real good you might see some Foxes running the course. Toss them a scrap or two. They luv cheeseburgers.

Jay Fox is a dining critic for The Colorado Statesman.